Amundsen and Scott, trecking South, 100 years ago

100 Years ago…

Notes from Amundsen:

“On December 1 we left the glacier in high spirits. It was cut up by innumerable crevasses and holes. We were now at a height of 9,370 feet. In the mist and driving snow it looked as if we had a frozen lake before us; but it proved to be a sloping plateau of ice, full of small blocks of ice. Our walk across this frozen lake was not pleasant. The ground under our feet was evidently hollow, and it sounded as if we were walking on empty barrels. First a man fell through, then a couple of dogs; but they got up again all right. We could not, of course, use our ski on this smooth-polished ice, but we got on fairly well with the sledges. We called this place the Devil's Ballroom. This part of our march was the most unpleasant of the whole trip.”

“On December 2 we reached our greatest elevation. According to the hypsometer and our aneroid barometer we were at a height of 11,075 feet -- this was in lat. 87º 51'.”

Notes from Scott:

Thursday, November 30.—Camp 26. A very pleasant day for marching, but a very tiring march for the poor animals, which, with the exception of Nobby, are showing signs of failure all round. We were slower by half an hour or more than yesterday. Except that the loads are light now and there are still eight animals left, things don't look too pleasant, but we should be less than 60 miles from our first point of aim. The surface was much worse to-day, the ponies sinking to their knees very often. There were a few harder patches towards the end of the march. In spite of the sun there was not much 'glide' on the snow. The dogs are reported as doing very well. They are going to be a great standby, no doubt. The land has been veiled in thin white mist; it appeared at intervals after we camped and I had taken a couple of photographs.
Friday, December 1.—Camp 27. Lat. 82° 47'. The ponies are tiring pretty rapidly. It is a question of days with all except Nobby. Yet they are outlasting the forage, and to-night against some opinion I decided Christopher must go. He has been shot; less regret goes with him than the others, in remembrance of all the trouble he gave at the outset, and the unsatisfactory way he has gone of late. Here we leave a depôt [31] so that no extra weight is brought on the other ponies; in fact there is a slight diminution. Three more marches ought to bring us through. With the seven crocks and the dog teams we must get through I think. The men alone ought not to have heavy loads on the surface, which is extremely trying.
Nobby was tried in snowshoes this morning, and came along splendidly on them for about four miles, then the wretched affairs racked and had to be taken off. There is no doubt that these snowshoes are the thing for ponies, and had ours been able to use them from the beginning they would have been very different in appearance at this moment. I think the sight of land has helped the animals, but not much. We started in bright warm sunshine and with the mountains wonderfully clear on our right hand, but towards the end of the march clouds worked up from the east and a thin broken cumulo-stratus now overspreads the sky, leaving the land still visible but dull. A fine glacier descends from Mount Longstaff. It has cut very deep and the walls stand at an angle of at least 50°. Otherwise, although there are many cwms on the lower ranges, the mountains themselves seem little carved. They are rounded massive structures. A cliff of light yellow-brown rock appears opposite us, flanked with black or dark brown rock, which also appears under the lighter colour. One would be glad to know what nature of rock these represent. There is a good deal of exposed rock on the next range also.

*  On November 28, 1929, Byrd and three others took off in their Ford Tri-motor and headed south. After a harrowing climb over the Transantarctic Mountains, Byrd and his crew became the first to fly over the south pole, at 1:14 in the morning on November 29, 1929

*  The Antarctic Treaty was signed on December 1, 1959 and came into force on June 23,1961. Among other provisions, this treaty limits military activity in the Antarctic to the support of scientific research. In essence, this treaty (ratified by all parties in 1961) set the continent of Antarctica aside for peaceful, scientific purposes and placed all territorial claims on hold.

NOAA

So, here at the South Pole, we have the cleanest air on Earth.  Literally.  We have an area on station known as the Clean Air Sector, which belongs to NOAA.  The area is completely off limits, on the ground and overhead.  NOAA samples this air, and compares it to other Clean Air Sectors, worldwide.

I was lucky enough to get a tour by one of our scientists out there on Friday.  I have posted a few articles, which will explain everything much better than I could type it out.  The first link is very informative with what is measured here.

At the end, I got take samples of our air, and bottle it up.  A bit cheesy I suppose, but at the same time really neat!  2 NOAA scientists are hired every year, and winter over.

http://www.omao.noaa.gov/oldies/nspt.html

http://antarcticsun.usap.gov/science/contentHandler.cfm?id=1234

http://blogs.agu.org/wildwildscience/2010/01/21/the-real-uncertainties-about-climate-change-and-why-antarctica-may-have-the-answers/

The NOAA building

A few things to note here: 1- these are the only windows that "open" and close on station. They are sorta freezer door'ish, which is how all of our door are on station. Scientists use these windows to open and sample air, even in the dead of winter at -100+.  2- the picture on the window was taken a few years ago.  Those are the Southern Lights above the NOAA building. Lovely, lovely photo!

This is scientific equipment from NASA.  It shoots a beam out the window and reflects on a mirror up to space.  They measure cloud height, and is very precise given our clean air.

A hard to read graph that depicts the South Pole having the cleanest air on the planet.  

Device used to measure CO2.

The long walk back to the station.  Flag poles in place to note the path.

100 years ago...

On this weekend Amundsen and Scott were making their way to the South Pole; this is what was recorded in their journals.  (Copied from an email sent out by our Area Director). 

Amundsen recorded that the dogs were doing well and he pitched his tent in the most beautiful campsite in the world.

Scott recorded “quite the most trying march we’ve had…. If it were not for the surface and bad light, things would not be so bad. There are few sastrugi and little deep snow. For the most part men and ponies sink to a hard crust some 3 or 4 inches beneath the soft upper snow…. Our forage supply necessitates that we should plug on the 13 (geographical) miles daily under all conditions, so that we can only hope for better things. It is several days since we had a glimpse of land, which makes conditions especially gloomy. A tired animal makes a tired man, I find, and none of us are very bright now after the day's march, though we have had ample sleep of late.” 

By Comparison:
85th Parallel
Reached by Amundsen Nov 17, 1911
Reached by Scott Dec 21 1911
558km to the Pole

86th Parallel
Reached by Amundsen Nov 27, 1911
Reached by Scott Dec 26, 1911
447km to the Pole

Happy Thanksgiving!

Happy Thanksgiving to all my stateside friends!!  We, Polies celebrate the holiday on the weekend.  So, we will have a big feast on Saturday- well, as big of feast as we can!  Rumor has it we had freshies and a few other menu items on plane that never made it here.  At the pole, we haven't seen any airplanes in 3 days because of the weather!  Guess we'll just make do!

Many, many thanks to all my supporters of my journey south!

Weather Balloon Launch

Yesterday, I went out with one of our staff meteorologists to launch the weather balloon!  As it rises 100,000 feet above sea level, it collects atmospheric pressures, temperatures, and various other things used to forecast South Pole weather.  When it pops (90,000ft above the South Pole), it lands somewhere over the continent- I was told we don't go collecting the boxes.  We launch 2 balloons a day from the South Pole.

 

We keep the balloons in a heated box so they inflate properly

We blew the balloon up...

Attached a GPS, and a weather measuring computer, and then I got to launch it!!

Why yes, everything is North from here

Everything points North from here!

Postcards

Friends and Family...  I have a few postcards from our store here!  Email me your address if you would like one!  We don't get mail very often here, but a lot seems to go out, so hopefully you'll get it by Christmas!!!

The poles...

Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, located at 90 degrees south latitude, sits at an elevation of approximately 2,836 meters (9,306 ft), most of which is ice. Because the Earth’s atmosphere is thinner at the poles, the resulting average “physiological altitude” is 3,223 m (10,576 ft).

The average annual temperature at the South Pole is -49.5° C (-57.1 °F), with a record low temperature of -82.8° C (-117.0° F) in June 1982 and a record high of -13.6° C (+7.5° F) in December

1978.  The extremely dry environment limits annual snowfall. However, a relatively constant wind speed of 5-15 knots accounts for the snow drifting common to inland Antarctic stations. The surrounding terrain is virtually flat, except for shallow waves of sastrugi (small snowdrifts).

Went out last night about 9pm and took a few photos around the poles.  I'm sure more pictures will be posted in the future, once it warms up a bit and I can shed my coat.  It was around -40 last night.

The geographic south pole is above, the ceremonial south pole is below.  The main station- the one and only structured building at the south pole- is behind the flags.

Ahhh, the warmth!!!

Sat in the sauna today!  It was WONDERFULLY warm!!!!

Baby cucumbers, Basil, and Peppers!

Tuesday at the greenhouse...

Decisions, Decisions?

Today I was offered an opportunity to camp..... outside. 

At the Pole (and in McMurdo too), we can go through a survival training of sorts.  In 12 hours, I would go through some classroom training, then hike about 5 miles away from the station, learn to start a stove, set up a tent, and survive in the elements.  It seems like great training (for perhaps a distance sled dog race?!?!).  And, it would allow me to go to field camps around Antarctica if given the opportunity. 

It's been -30'ish here, with windchills in the -50's. 

Should I or shouldn't I? 

("You only live once" is playing in my head!)

Veteran's Day

We celebrated Veteran's Day at 11:11am on 11/11/11 at the Geographic South Pole.  It was nice.

Greenhouse!!

So, I volunteered in the greenhouse today!  I spent just over an hour trimming dead leaves off the plants.  For now, we are just letting things grow so their will be lots of greenery when the tourists show up in about a month for all the 100 year anniversary celebrations.  After mind January, we will tear it all down and replant so the winterovers will have freshies (fresh veggies) during the winter when planes can no longer bring them food.  It's fairly warm, about 70% humidity, and the light is super bright inside the greenhouse.  I tried to take a few photos, and they aren't the best... but I figured y'all would want to see what it looked like!!  Excited to learn something about gardening at the Pole this season!!!

My Mansion

Well, not exactly a mansion, but I’m LIVING at the South Pole of the World!  I was finally able to get some pictures of my Jamesway (tent).  My beautiful establishment is in Jamesway 8, apartment 7.  There are about 14 rooms in my building.  I am fortunate because I’m in the middle, right next to the furnace!  So, heat gets to my room first and is the warmest air.  We keep our building about 70, so it’s very comfortable.  Unfortunately, I was only able to photograph my room, not the inside of the building.  Many work rotating shifts, and sleep during the day, so the hallway is always dark.  The pictures of my room are taken from my bed.  My room is about 8 x 6 or so.  Whoever was here before me insulated it very well.  I have old war wool blankets on the non-plywood walls.  The Jamesways themselves are also from the war.  

I’m really fairly fortunate with the room I got!  I can’t believe it even has a door locking system (well, the piece of wood is hung, quite literally, in place by a few screws sticking towards the outside, and therefor doesn’t “really” lock.. but it holds the door closed!).  

My Jamesway is on the left side of the picture.  There are about 18 or so Jamesways.

Does my front door have curb appeal???

Great storage!

Must keep the shoes and next days clothes on the top shelf!!!  The floor is ice cold, but the top is toasty!

My door lock!

The previous owner left me Christmas lights!  This is the vent that goes above my bed.  It's got a few holes in it, so the warm air blows on me while I sleep!!  

Tonight was laundry night!  Whoo hoo!  This is once a week, one load maximum occurrence.  And the washers are super small!  Tomorrow I am volunteering in the greenhouse!  Everyone is encouraged to help out, and I picked the greenhouse!  It’s 70% humidity and super warm in there!!  (South Pole is 3% humidity).  Hopefully I’ll learn something!  I’ll be working there about 3 hours a week for the season!  

Jeppesen, you have followed me all the way to the South Pole

For all my aviation friends: I got to revise the Antarctic Flight Information Manual today.

As the ice sheet moves, some of the runways throughout the continent change.  Pretty neat to see!

Shower day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well, friends I've made it.  It's Monday night here on the ice, and my last shower was Thursday morning.  I made it 5 days! Here at the South Pole, we don't have much water.  Even though we have plenty of ice, it takes a lot gas/electricity to melt.  We don't have much of that either.  The gas at the South Pole is either flown in (a few thousand gallons at a time), or "trucked" in (from McMurdo, it takes 30 days to get here).  Soo.... at the Pole, we are allowed a 2 minute shower, twice a week.

So, happy day!

I promise I will get a picture of the Poles/Station up at some point.  (I haven't even walked out to the Pole yet!!)  For now, enjoy a picture of a LC-130 that came in today.  The picture is taken right outside my office on an observation deck.  5 winterovers finally escaped!  (Winterovers- about 40 people who stay here from the time the sun sets in February until it rises again in October.. they keep the building running and enjoy the negative 100+ temps!  They see no planes or any other people, they are locked in!)

At the South Pole, Sunday evenings mean science lectures (not football!)

So, at the Pole I am surrounded by scientists!  Every Sunday night, someone will give a presentation about their project.  Last night we heard all about the mountain range and lakes burried a mile and a half below the ice sheet of Antarctica!!  I was amazed. 

I found a quick article about the topic, but you might have to google for more information!  Really fascinating!!

http://www.antarctica.gov.au/science/australian-antarctic-science-strategy-200405-201011/international-polar-year-2007-09/projects/agap-antarcticas-gamburtsev-province/science-at-the-heart-of-antarctica

It's my job

So, at the Pole, I am a Comms Operator (Communications).  I love my job so far!  For my Express Jet friends, it's just like being the SOCC Manager, only for Pole operations instead of airline operations.  About half my job is flight following the flights to/from the Pole.  The military jets take off, report times to Mac Center (McMurdo Center), and I hear them.  I record them and note the progress.  When the aircraft are within range, I give them the current weather (Metar), then a current altimeter/winds on final approach. It's great!  I love talking to the military pilots!!!  When airplanes come and go, I announce it to the station, so everyone is aware and they stay clear of the skiway (runway).  Today, we are up to 187 people at the Pole!

The other half of my job is emergency response.  I monitor most systems and ensure they are operating properly (Powerplant, generators.. ).  I also monitor fire alarms and coordinate response to medical emergencies.

My job is the best!  :)  I get several visitors a day- just popping in to check out a radio, reserve a conference room, watch planes land, or just ask what time lunch is served!  It's certainly the hub of all information on station!  I also have the best view in the house!  My office overlooks part of the runway and the Ice Cube project.  I think I'll know just about everyone on station by the time my 3 months are up!

The World Revolves Around Me!

I have made it to the South Pole of the World!!!  We landed in a LC-130 (ski equipped) jet around lunchtime today.  I've been busy ever since!  (Good thing- windchill is -51.... dare I say I've been cold for a good portion of the day?!?!?)

It's great to finally unpack my things in my tent- it's so stylish!  The previous owner left me many goodies.. and my space is divided by plywood, with a concocked door!  Many tents just have sheets!  So, by Polie standards I'm living well!  In fact, I'm sitting in my bed, using wifi to blog!!  :)

As I mentioned before, the satellites come and go- in fact, I will lose them in just a few minutes!  I'll post pictures when I get a little more settled!  For now, I need some dinner and rest!  I start my new job tomorrow.

Cheers!!!!

Made it to McMurdo, Antarctica!

Well, I've made it to the ice!  :)  It's 11:30pm, 5:30 (yesterday, by you) central time... and after a very long day, I've finally found a moment to post a few pictures!  I'm scheduled to go to the Pole in 8 hours (after a few hours of sleep), but the weather is forecasted to be crummy... so, I'll keep y'all posted.  For now, just a few pictures from the trip in and a quick hike earlier (saw 3 seals hanging out, with their hole to get in the water to right)!